Posts Tagged ‘exposure’
For some time now I’ve been using and teaching a process of working on photographs in Lightroom. It consists of basically four steps: manual adjustments, tonality adjustments, hue adjustments and finally saturation adjustments. Quite some time ago I had the brilliant idea of converting the image to black and white before doing the tonality adjustments. The technique I used was the B & W tab in Lightroom’s HSL group. Once the tonality adjustments were done, the image would be converted back to color and the process continue.
It didn’t work out because when I converted the image back to color, the colors were so oversaturated and unnatural that the image looked horrible. It was just easier to do the tonality adjustments on the color image. So I quickly gave up on that technique. But the other day I was reading an article in Popular Photography magazine that rekindled this idea. It took a different approach. It turned the image to black and white by setting the Saturation adjustment to -100. Now the author did this in the middle of the process but I thought that if I applied this to my process and did that at the start it just might work. So I was eager to give it a try. Let’s try it with this image of the Watchman in Zion National Park.
This is the original raw file. I haven’t done anything to it yet. It doesn’t need any mechanical adjustments. These consist of removing spots, straightening the image, maybe some noise reduction and the final crop. But since none of these are required we can move on to the tonality adjustments.
Continue reading “Making a Photograph – A New Approach to Tonality Adjustments” »
Tags: black, black and white, color, contrast, exposure, graduated filter, highlight, HSL, hue, Lightroom, luminosity, saturation, shadow, spot removal tool, tonality, vignette, white
Posted in How To Articles, Journal, Lightroom, Making a Photograph | Comments (0)
There’s no question about it; photography is very technical. There are many technical skills that must be mastered to become a proficient photographer. And they didn’t all just crop up when digital cameras came on the scene. Film cameras required a great deal of technical know-how also.
If you were taking a grand landscape photograph back in the days of film, a composition that had a very interesting foreground and a spectacular background, you had to know how to control your depth of field so that the foreground and the background and everything in between would be in focus. This required a technical knowledge of the three factors that affect sharpness; those being, focal distance (the distance from the camera to the object you’re focusing on), the focal length of the lens and the f-stop.
Exposure in the film era was perhaps even a little more intimidating. Your ISO was determined by your film and you selected that when you purchased it. But you had to set your shutter speed and your f-stop manually. Shutter speed wasn’t too hard to understand. If you decrease the length of time the shutter was open, you decrease the amount of light that passed through the lens by the same amount. A shutter speed of 1/30 of a second let twice as much light through the lens as 1/60 of a second. Pretty simple.
But f-stop didn’t make any sense at all. If your f-stop was f/8 and you wanted to double the amount of light coming through the lens, you set it to f/5.6. The amount of light was doubled but the number was smaller. And it wasn’t what you might intuitively have expected it to be, namely, f/4. It could be a bit baffling. And the only way to get a grasp on it was to memorize these weird numbers. With film you were stuck with manual exposure and there was no getting around it. With digital you can use one of the automatic exposure modes so you can get away without fully understanding this f/stop stuff. But it’s still best if you do.
The coming of the digital camera introduced a whole new level of complexity. In the film age the camera was a simple mechanical device. You were responsible for doing practically everything – deciding where to focus, the shutter speed to use and the f-stop to use. The only role the camera played was to open the shutter for the precise length of time that you specified when you set the shutter speed.
Continue reading “Making a Photograph – The Technical and the Creative” »
Tags: creativity, depth of field, exposure, fine art, human brain, landscape, left brain, photography, right brain, sharpnesss
Posted in Journal | Comments (2)
If you’re a person who’s interested in just taking pictures and don’t want to be bothered with all the technical details, you are probably photographing with your camera set to automatic mode. Often times automatic mode is indicated by a green box. Probably the handiest feature of automatic mode is that the camera makes all the decisions for you. All you have to think about is getting the people you’re photographing in the frame and pressing the shutter. The camera does everything else.
But the problem is that the camera doesn’t always get it right. Often times it will overexpose parts of the image making them look washed out. But there’s a simple way to avoid this without mastering all the complicated technical details of shooting in manual mode. And that is P mode.
Using P Mode
The P and P mode stands for Programmed Automatic. In P mode the camera allows you to make some of the decisions while it makes the rest. You get to choose whether or not to use flash, and set the ISO, exposure compensation and white balance. The camera sets the f-stop and shutter speed.
Let’s take these controls one by one. Let’s start with flash. You can decide whether you want to use flash or not. If you’re shooting in bright daylight or even on a cloudy day you probably don’t need flash. But if it’s a little darker you can always choose to turn the flash on. If you don’t know how to turn your flash on or off you’ll need to consult your camera’s manual.
Continue reading “Photo Tips – Getting Great Exposures the Easy Way” »
Tags: Aperture, aperture priority, camera settings, cloudy, color, daylight, exposure, exposure compensation, flash, image, ISO, light meter, open shade, photography, shutter speed, tungsten, white balance
Posted in How To Articles | Comments (0)
I recently read an article by William Neill in the September Outdoor Photography magazine titled “Need to Know” that really resonated with me. His main point is, don’t let the acquisition of gear and techniques interfere with the experience. There’s so much information out there, so many people offering advice on techniques for composing, exposing and post processing. But in Neill’s journey he has developed what he calls, ‘… a simple but effective tool set.”
A foundation of gear and technique is important in capturing the experience. But it is the experience that is what we’re out there for, not histograms or depth of field or leading lines.
Continue reading “Making a Photograph – Two Sides of the Coin” »
Tags: aperture priority, composition, creative, depth of field, exposure, focus, gear, histogram, landscape, leading lines, light, manual, Outdoor Photography, photograph, photography, sharpness, skills, technical, William Neill
Posted in Making a Photograph | Comments (4)
California is blessed with two species of redwoods, the Giant Sequoia (Sequoia giganteum) of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and the Coastal Redwoods (Sequoia semperverins) along the California coast from the Oregon border to 150 miles south of San Francisco. These awe-inspiring trees are both a joy and a challenge to photograph. I recently spent a week in Crescent City in Northern California photographing the Coastal Redwoods and leading a photography workshop there. I’d like to pass along some of the techniques we employed to capture photographs that do these majestic trees justice in breathtaking but often very difficult light.
Continue reading “How to Photograph the Coastal Redwoods” »
Tags: California, coastal redwoods, contrast, creative vocabulary, crepuscular rays, expose to the right, exposure, fantastic, fog, giant sequoia, god rays, HDR, High Dynamic Range, light, Lightroom, mist, optimum, photo workshops. Northern California, photography workshop, PhotoMatix, PhotoShop, sunlight
Posted in Expoure, Light, Lightroom, Photoshop | Comments (4)
We all love photography. Perhaps you are a casual photographer, using your smart phone or point-and-shoot camera to capture the precious moments in life you cherish and want to remember. Perhaps you admire the work of others and would like to be able to capture scenes or moments like they do. Or maybe you are skilled and have been passionate about your own photography for quite some time now.
For those that seek to develop themselves as photographers there are a couple of approaches you can take. You can learn on your own by reading and photographing. And if you are able to devote the time and energy to this process you will surely be successful. However, it is more of a trial-and-error approach to learning photography and, let’s face it, we don’t all have the time or energy to adequately feed our passion.
Or, you can learn from someone who has already mastered the challenges you encounter along the way. And one of the most effective and affordable ways of accomplishing this is through a photography workshop.
So I would like to share with you my top ten reasons for attending a photography workshop.
Photography workshops give you the opportunity to focus just on photography and capturing the beauty that surrounds you. The complications of your busy life are left at home or at work and for several stimulating days your existence is focused on one thing – capturing the beauty that surrounds you.
Continue reading “Ten Reasons to Take a Photography Workshop” »
Tags: camaraderie, classes, composition, critique, exposure, focus, inspiration, instruction, investment, light, location, one-on-one, photo, photography, sharpness, style, technical skills, value, workshop, Workshops
Posted in Journal, Workshops | Comments (0)
Here are some tips on nighttime photography from an informative article by Dan Richards in a recent issue Popular Photography. Credit for these tips goes to three great photographers – Matt Walker, Darren White and Mashahiro Miyasaka. Here is the heart of what they shared…
- Use a fast, wide lens. Wide lenses slow the apparent motion of the stars. Fast lenses gather more of the faint light.
- Use a tripod. The shortest practical exposure is 30 seconds. Star trails require anything from tens of minutes to an hour or more.
- Use an intervalometer. This is essential for exposures greater than 30 seconds or if you plan to take a sequence of 30 second exposures.
- Be aware of the weather. An overcast sky will foil nighttime photography plans and a wind will wreak havoc with long exposures.
- Be careful. Scout the location ahead of time. Use a headlamp, especially one that has a red light so as not to destroy your night vision.
- Include interesting foregrounds. They can be silhouettes or you can light paint them. You also have the option of creating a composite image by capturing a well exposed image of the foreground at low ISO and a high ISO image of the sky and then blending the two.
- Focusing is really difficult. Autofocus doesn’t work so you must use manual focus. Pick the brightest star in the sky and use live view to focus on it (don’t change your focal length to focus; use the focal length you’ll be using for your image). Another alternative is to focus on an object at infinity during the day and then marking the focus point with fluorescent tape so you can reset the same focus at night. Again, use the focal length you will be shooting with as the infinity focus point changes as you zoom in and out.
- Exposure is critical. If you’re going to shoot starry night photographs your exposure length will be 30 seconds (with a 24 mm lens or wider). Shoot wide open and run tests with different ISO settings. If you’re going to use a long exposure to get star trails determine the ISO setting your 30 second exposure and then adjust ISO and f/stop to compensate for the length of exposure. If your ISO is 6400 at f/2.8 and 30 seconds, if you want a 60 second exposure reduce your ISO to 3200. A two-minute exposure requires an ISO of 1600.
- Take a workshop. That’s always good advice, no matter how experienced you are. There’s always more to learn.
- Don’t get disheartened. This is not easy stuff but practice pays off.
- Get in shape. Good locations for night photography are going to be where there’s minimal light pollution and that’s a long ways away from city lights.
- When the temperature is cold wrap a hand warmer around your lens to keep it from fogging over on those long half hour to hour exposures.
Well, that’s it. Yea, and I confess; I threw in a couple of my tips too.
Hey, here are a couple of blog posts I’ve done on nighttime photography a while back there.
Exciting Nighttime Photography in 10 Easy steps
So, go on out there and give it a try. Have fun and be careful.
We always enjoy hearing from you so please feel free to leave a comment and share your experiences with us.
Also sharing this post on Google+, Facebook, Twitter and the like is also appreciated.
Join me on an upcoming workshop. Click here for more details.
To see more of my photographs click here.
Tags: autofocus, composite, exposure, f/stop, fast lens, focal length, focus, focus point, foregrounds, hand warmer, headlamp, image, intervalometer, ISO, light, light paint, live view, location, manual focus, night, nighttime, overcast, photo, photo workshops, photography, seconds, silhouettes, sky, star, time, tripod, weather, wide lens, Wind, workshop
Posted in How To | Comments (0)
Over the years there has been a lot of interest in the concept of ‘Expose to the right.’ This is something that is commonly done in digital photography where you intentionally overexpose an image. The idea is that in digital images there is more information to work with in the brighter tonalities than there is in the darker. And this will give you more to work with in the darkroom (Lightroom and Photoshop) which will result in a better image.
I’ve written several posts on this topic and if the concept is new to you please read these. I’m not going to go into the theory here; that is spelled out in these posts.
Lightroom Tutorial – Expose to the Right
Expose to the right – Revisited
Now, I understand the theory. I’m a computer guy; I had better understand it. But I’ve always wondered if the promise of a better image actually worked out in real life. So I did a test during our recent photography workshop to Big Sur.
Continue reading “Mastering Exposure – Expose to the Right” »
Tags: Big Sur, black point, Blacks, clarity, clipping, Darkroom, digital, expose to the right, exposure, exposure compensation, highlight, histogram, image, Lightroom, old coast road, over expose, overexpose, photo, photograph, photography, PhotoShop, redwood, shadow, tonality, workflow, workshop
Posted in Expoure, How To Articles, Lightroom | Comments (1)
You read this story again and again. The setting may be different but the plot is always the same.
It’s a dreary, overcast day. You had planned this photo session for months, scouting it on Google Earth for the best location, checked the sun position on TPE (The Photographer’s Ephemeris), and received inspiration from the photographs of other photographers. You made travel plans and booked lodging.
You arrived early at the iconic location, having traveled across the country and driven many miles in a rental car to get there. But as you approach the sky turns dark with low hanging, gray clouds. The light is a disappointment but you walk out to a viewpoint and set up anyway. You keep telling yourself that good fortune happens to those who are prepared.
The minutes tick by and the sun, unseen behind a thick cloak of clouds, continues its inexorable decent to the horizon. Other photographers join you and you ask each other, “Will it happen?” Most shrug their shoulders and reply, “It doesn’t look like it will.” It turns chilly and a cold breeze starts blowing. Many photographers mutter, “It’s not going to happen,” pack up their gear and head back to their cars and a warm meal waiting them in the comfort of a nearby restaurant.
Continue reading “Two Minutes of Light” »
Tags: clouds, exposure, focus, golden hour, golden light, Google Earth, histogram, light, Mc Way Cove, Mc Way Falls, overcast, photograph, photographer, sunset, TPE
Posted in Journal | Comments (1)
What’s on your mind?
I’ve been thinking about ‘fine art.’
You’ve got to be kidding. I mean there are PhDs that study this sort of thing, masters of the arts that won’t touch the topic. What makes you think you can think about ‘fine art?’
I don’t know. I just wonder about it. I’m trying to be an artist and I wonder what it all means, if I’m truly an artist or if I’m getting any closer.
Ok, you’re a photographer, aren’t you? So you must be thinking about fine art photography. You must be nuts! Nobody agrees on what fine art photography is.
Yea, fine art photography, that’s it. What do you think? Do you have any ideas of what it really is? I mean I’ve heard people say that if you want your photography to be art all you have to do is to call it art and it is so. ‘My photographs are fine art.’ Lord knows you hear that enough. But that seems a bit too simplistic, a bit too easy. It seems like it should be more than that. I mean, can you snap a picture, run down to Costco to get a large print and call it art?
Continue reading “A Conversation about Fine Art” »
Tags: Adams, advertisements, Ansel, art, artist, cliché, color, commercial, communicate, composition, creative, creativity, document, documenting, essence, exposure, feelings, Fine, focus, gallery, historic, illustration, images, insight, inspiration, intense, interpretation, license, lighting, memories, moment, museum, painters, persuasive, photographer, photography, photojournalism, poetic, portrait, portraiture, postcard, print, product, reality, scrapbook, shoe box, skill, snapshot, soul, subject, trip, vacation, visual
Posted in Journal | Comments (0)