Tell Me More About Depth of Field

Get an overview of depth of field.

What Is Depth of Field

Depth of field is a range in front of your camera in which everything within that range is in focus and elements that are either in front of the range or behind it are out of focus. Here’s an example.

Suppose you have the camera set up to give you a depth of field of 100 feet. The depth of field range starts at 50 feet and will extend to 150 feet. All of the elements between 50 feet and 150 feet will be in focus. Elements closer than 50 feet will be out of focus as will elements farther away than 150 feet.

Depths of field can be shallow or deep. A shallow depth of field could be as small as a few inches. A deep depth of field could extend from one foot to infinity.

What Determines Depth of Field?

Depth of field is determined by three factors – the focal length of the lens, the distance of the object you are focusing on from the lens (the focal distance) and the aperture or f/stop.

Lens Focal Length

Lens focal lengths range from wide angle to telephoto. Wide angle lenses are praised for their deep depths of field. A lens with an effective[1] focal length of 16 mm can have a depth of field of 18 inches to infinity with ease.

In contrast, a 400 mm lens could have a depth of field of as little as 3.5 feet or less when focused on an object 100 feet away.

Portrait lenses are often in the range of 80 to 100 mm focal length. This is enough to have the subject in focus while the background is blurred. This is a much sought after effect for outdoor portraits.

Focal Distance

The distance of the object that is focused on from the lens also affects depth of field. If the object is close than, say 5 feet, the depth of field will be shallow. If it is farther from the lens, the depth of field will be deeper.

In macro photography, the object being focused on is sometimes mere inches from the lens. This can contribute to a very shallow depth of field, an affect that is often desirable in macro photography.

However, with such a shallow depth of field it is critical that the camera focuses on the intended object. With autofocus, you take your chances and will often lose. Therefore, manual focus and a tripod is important.

Hyperfocal Distance

But near-far compositions pose a different challenge. In this situation an extremely deep depth of field is required. And the focal distance is of critical importance. You need to focus on an object that is at the hyperfocal distance. Fortunately, it is easy to accurately determine the hyperfocal distance. Here’s the process.

    • Set up your shot on a tripod and get it composed exactly the way you want it.
    • Now look through your viewfinder or live view screen and identify the object closest to your lens. This will usually be an object on the bottom edge of the frame.
    • Measure the distance from the lens to the nearest object as accurately as you can. For example, the nearest object is 3.5 feet from the lens.
    • Multiply that distance by 2. That is the hyperfocal distance. In our example, the hyperfocal distance is 7 feet.
    • Locate an object that is the hyperfocal distance from the lens.
    • Focus on that object. Be sure to use manual focus so the camera doesn’t change it. It is best to use live view and magnify the object you are focusing on to get a tack sharp focus.

The key to determining hyperfocal distance is in understanding that it is twice the distance to the nearest object in your composition. That’s all there is to it.

A rule of thumb for focusing at the hyperfocal distance is to focus on an object 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom of the frame.  This can be a close approximation except in extreme conditions.

F/stop

The third factor in determining depth of field is aperture or f/stop. Wide open apertures have a shallow depth of field. They are often used to get a sharp foreground and blurred backgrounds,

Small apertures have a deeper depth of field. Smaller apertures are used in most landscape photographs.

How Do You Get the Depth of Field You Want?

Shallow Depth of Field

Getting a shallow depth of field is pretty straightforward.

    • Use a moderately long lens; e.g., 80 to 100 mm
    • Get close, 10 to 20 feet or even closer if you can
    • Shoot with a wide-open aperture

Deep Depth of Field

This is more complicated.

If you’re effective focal length is 60 mm or less and your aperture is f/8 or smaller, then anything from 25 feet and beyond will be in focus. But think of this as a guideline, not a rule. There can very well be exceptions.

But getting depth of field when the nearest object is closer than 25 feet or the effective focal length is more than 60 mm, then depth of field becomes tricky.

The safest approach is to use one of the many depth of fields apps that are available on smart phones. In this situation you know two of the three things needed to create the needed depth of field – you know the focal length of the lens and you know the focal distance (the hyperfocal distance). Feed these values into your app and it can tell you the f/stop you need.

If an app is not available, you can always ‘bracket’ the depth of field by shooting the scene at different f/stops beginning at, say, f/8 and advancing stop-by-stop to f/22. Later in the digital darkroom, you can select the image that is the sharpest.


[1] An Effective focal length is the focal length for a full frame sensor. For crop sensors, you need to multiply the actual focal length of the lens by the crop factor to get the effective focal length. For example, a crop sensor camera with a crop factor of 1.5 and a 16 mm lens would have an effective focal length of 24 mm (16 * 1.5).

Join me on an exciting workshop. Click here to see what’s available.

(101)

Tell Me More About Auto Exposure Bracketing

Review the history of auto exposure bracketing and how it is used in the digital age.

What Is Auto Exposure Bracketing and What Is It Used For?

Auto Exposure Bracketing (or AEB) dates back to the film days. Color reversal film, or slide film, was very sensitive to exposure. If your exposure was off by even a half a stop, it would not be acceptable for critical work. So, photographers got into the habit of taking three shots – one at the exposure they calculated, one a half stop overexposed and one a half stop underexposed. This ensured that one of the frames was correctly exposed.

In the digital world, AEB plays a different role. With the power of the tools available to us in the digital darkroom, we can easily compensate for exposures that are not perfect.

But now we can photograph scenes that were not possible in the film days. These are scenes in which the dynamic range exceeds the ability of the sensor (or film) to capture. In the film days you could use a graduated neutral density (grad ND) filter if there was a clear and straight dividing line between the bright and dark parts of the image. But for scenes where no such line existed, such as dappled sunlight on a forest floor, you had to forego the photograph.

In the digital world you have the ability to capture scenes with even the most difficult dynamic range challenges. The technique is HDR and it involves taking multiple shots with enough different exposures to capture the full dynamic range and blending them together in the digital darkroom.

And this is where AEB comes in. Instead of a bracketing interval of 1/5 stop, you can set a bracketing interval of 1 stop, 2 and even more stops. The bracketing interval depends on your camera. Not all are the same. And many digital cameras will allow you to take two, three, five or even seven shots to ensure you capture the full dynamic range of the scene, again, depending on your camera.

You can use AEB by pressing the shutter once for each shot up to the number of shots you specified. Or you can put the shutter on burst mode and press and hold it until the camera takes all of the shots.

Finding the Control

Different camera manufactures have their own ways of applying auto exposure bracketing. This may even change from model to model.

Consult your camera’s manual to learn how to use it.


Join me on an exciting workshop. Click here to see what’s available.

Read more:

Tell Me More About Exposure
Tell Me More About ISO
Tell Me More About Aperture
Tell Me More About Shutter Speed
Tell Me More About the Exposure Triangle

(36)

Tell Me More About Exposure Compensation

An explanation of how exposure compensation works and when to use it.

What Is Exposure Compensation and How Does It Work?

Cameras do a pretty good job of determining a proper exposure for the scene you are about to shoot. But they don’t always get it right. Sometimes the image is overexposed and other times it is underexposed.

Tell Me More About Exposure….

When this happens, you need to override the exposure determined by the camera. If you are shooting in aperture priority or shutter priority mode, you can’t do this by adjusting the aperture or shutter speed because the camera will compensate for the change by adjusting the other setting and you get the same exposure.

For example, if you are shooting aperture priority and the aperture is set to f/5.6 (with ISO 100), the camera may set the shutter speed at 1/125 of a second. If you need to darken the image by one stop and change the aperture to f/8, the camera will compensate for the reduced brightness by changing the shutter speed to 1/60 of a second. You get the same exposure.

But you can override the camera’s exposure settings by using Exposure Compensation. You can either increase or decrease the exposure and the camera will then alter its settings to either over or underexpose the image by the amount you specified.

To use the same example as above, to darken the image by one stop you would set the Exposure Compensation to -1.0. You are shooting in aperture priority mode so the camera will adjust the shutter speed. Instead of the original shutter speed of 1/125 of a second it will reduce the shutter speed by one stop to 1/250 of a second, causing the exposure to be reduced by one stop.

Exposure compensation works well when shooting in aperture or shutter priority. When shooting in manual mode you are responsible for over or underexposing the image as needed.

Exposure compensation does not work in Auto mode.

Finding the Control

Different camera manufactures have their own ways of applying exposure compensation. This may even change from of the manufacturer’s model to another.

Consult your camera’s manual to learn how to use it.


Join me on an exciting workshop. Click here to see what’s available.

Read more:

Tell Me More About Exposure
Tell Me More About ISO
Tell Me More About Aperture
Tell Me More About Shutter Speed
Tell Me More About the Exposure Triangle

(45)