Mastering Your Camera

There are only 12 skills you need to learn to master your camera. Check out what they are.

I’m not the only one that contends that mastering your camera is an important first step in mastering photography. You’ll see it in blog posts, articles and videos.

Let’s take a deeper, more detailed look at what it means to master your camera and show that it’s not an impossible task, as intimidating as it may seem when you first start.

It starts with the question, “What does a camera do?” The hundreds of pages in the camera’s user manual and a similar number of options in its menus make it look like mastering it is a massive if not impossible task.  It appears daunting, especially if you are not technically inclined.  But in reality, what you need the camera to do comes down to just two things – control the exposure and control sharpness. Let’s see what core skills are required to master these two things.

Control Exposure

The purpose of exposure control is to ensure the right amount of light enters the camera so that the sensor can record the image you are photographing.  You and the camera need to respond to both bright and dark scenes.  The exposure controls are what makes it possible to match the exposure to the kinds of lighting conditions you encounter.

Tell Me More About Exposure….

There are three variables that can be adjusted to respond to the amount of light in the scene – ISO, aperture and shutter speed. These three variables form the famous exposure triangle.

Tell Me More About the Exposure Triangle….

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Tell Me More About Exposure Compensation

An explanation of how exposure compensation works and when to use it.

What Is Exposure Compensation and How Does It Work?

Cameras do a pretty good job of determining a proper exposure for the scene you are about to shoot. But they don’t always get it right. Sometimes the image is overexposed and other times it is underexposed.

Tell Me More About Exposure….

When this happens, you need to override the exposure determined by the camera. If you are shooting in aperture priority or shutter priority mode, you can’t do this by adjusting the aperture or shutter speed because the camera will compensate for the change by adjusting the other setting and you get the same exposure.

For example, if you are shooting aperture priority and the aperture is set to f/5.6 (with ISO 100), the camera may set the shutter speed at 1/125 of a second. If you need to darken the image by one stop and change the aperture to f/8, the camera will compensate for the reduced brightness by changing the shutter speed to 1/60 of a second. You get the same exposure.

But you can override the camera’s exposure settings by using Exposure Compensation. You can either increase or decrease the exposure and the camera will then alter its settings to either over or underexpose the image by the amount you specified.

To use the same example as above, to darken the image by one stop you would set the Exposure Compensation to -1.0. You are shooting in aperture priority mode so the camera will adjust the shutter speed. Instead of the original shutter speed of 1/125 of a second it will reduce the shutter speed by one stop to 1/250 of a second, causing the exposure to be reduced by one stop.

Exposure compensation works well when shooting in aperture or shutter priority. When shooting in manual mode you are responsible for over or underexposing the image as needed.

Exposure compensation does not work in Auto mode.

Finding the Control

Different camera manufactures have their own ways of applying exposure compensation. This may even change from of the manufacturer’s model to another.

Consult your camera’s manual to learn how to use it.


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Tell Me More About Exposure
Tell Me More About ISO
Tell Me More About Aperture
Tell Me More About Shutter Speed
Tell Me More About the Exposure Triangle

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Tell Me More about Exposure

Dig into the mysteries of exposure and explore how it works and how it is controlled.

What is Exposure?

When we photograph nature, some scenes are very bright like sand dunes in the middle of a sunny day. Others are very dark like the deep shade of a forest. Other scenes are both bright and dark like a blazing sun that just rose above the horizon on a brilliant morning.

There are many unique situations with different amounts or intensities of light.

Exposure is basically dealing with these different levels of light and making sure the sensor gets enough light to make a good photograph without getting too much light.

How Much Light Does the Sensor Need?

One way to think of it is that in low light situations (dark) the camera needs more light. In bright light situations it needs less. But that’s not true. The camera needs the same amount of light in either situation. A more accurate way of looking at it is in low light situations, it will take longer for the camera to get enough light than in a bright situation.

But there’s another aspect to this so let’s take a deeper look.

The image that passes through the lens is captured by the sensor and eventually stored as a file on a memory card. (There’s a lot that goes on between these two steps, but they are not important for this discussion.) The sensor, as you know, is made up of millions of pixels, microscopic elements that are sensitive to light. Actually, a pixel is three light-sensitive elements, one for red, another for green and a third for blue. But let’s keep it simple and speak of it as just one element that captures tones of gray.

When a picture is taken a different amount of light falls on each pixel depending on the subject photographed and the nature of the composition. In the shadow area there may not be enough light to even register on the sensor. This is called ‘shadow clipping’ and will produce a black dot.

In the bright areas there may be so much light, more than the sensor can measure. You can think of this as a glass filled to overflowing. There’s a limit to how much water a glass can hold and light a sensor can capture. This is called ‘highlight clipping’ and results in a white spot.

If a moderate amount of light falls on a pixel, it will capture the light and that pixel will render a gray spot that falls somewhere between black and white, depending on the amount of light.

Now, if the difference in the amount of light between black clipping and white clipping is ten stops, then the sensor has a dynamic range of ten stops. That is fixed and cannot be changed.

Back to the question – how much light does the camera need to make a proper exposure? If you took the amounts of light recorder by all of the millions of pixels and average them, the camera considers it a proper exposure when they average out to a neutral gray, a gray that is perceived as being neither dark or light but right in the middle. The definition of neutral gray is very precise. It is a gray that reflects 18% of the light.

There are different metering modes that go beyond just taking a simple average of all the pixels. There is center weighted which pays more attention to the pixels in the center of the frame, spot which only looks at the pixels covering about 5 degrees in the exact center of the frame and matrix which attempts to analyze the image and make a smarter determination.

But whichever metering mode you choose, the basic goal is to have the result produce a neutral gray.

The processor in the camera (all digital cameras are computers after all) has the logic to make this calculation. With the results, the computer can set the exposure settings.

The Exposure Triangle

The camera has three exposure settings that can be adjusted to get a proper exposure. They are ISO, aperture and shutter speed.

ISO controls the sensitivity of the sensor. The higher the ISO, the greater the sensitivity and less light will be needed.

Aperture controls how much light comes through the lens. You can think of it as adjusting the brightness of the image falling on the sensor.

Shutter speed controls how long the sensor is exposed to the image.

Shooting Modes

Most cameras have at lest four shooting modes – Auto, Aperture priority, Shutter priority and Manual. The setting you choose determines how many of the exposure settings the camera sets and how many you control.

Auto – The camera decides all three exposure settings.

Aperture priority – You decide the ISO and aperture and the camera decides the shutter speed.

Shutter priority – You decide the ISO and shutter speed and the camera decides the aperture.

Manual – You decide all three exposure settings.

In Summary

To sum it up, an exposure is the amount of light falling on a sensor, taking into account the sensor’s sensitivity. A proper exposure from the camera’s perspective is one where the amounts of light captured by all of the pixels being monitored average out to a neutral gray.

In a bright snow scene where most of the pixels are registering the bright white of the snow, the camera will make the snow a neutral gray.

In a dark scene with most of the pixels registering deep shadows, the camera will make the shadows a neutral gray.

But in a scene with a balance of bright and dark areas the exposure will be more like what we see.


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Tell Me More About ISO
Tell Me More About Aperture
Tell Me More About Shutter Speed
Tell Me More About the Exposure Triangle

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Tell Me More About Aperture

Take a closer look at aperture.

What Is Aperture?

Every lens has a built-in diaphragm that opens and closes like the iris of your eye. By opening and closing it the brightness of the image coming through the lens can be adjusted.

In today’s cameras, most camera bodies communicate with their lenses to tell them what aperture the photographer requested. The lens has a little motor in it that sets the aperture when the shutter is triggered. Otherwise the aperture is wide open.

How Is Aperture Used?

Aperture is measured in f/stops. An example is f/8. The f/stop looks like a fraction and indeed, it is. The f stands for the focal length of the lens. And the fraction defines the diameter of the opening. Here’s an example:

Suppose the lens has a focal length of 50 mm. If the f/stop was f/2, then the diameter of the opening would be 50/2 or 25 mm. If the f/stop was f/4 then the diameter of the opening would be 50/4 or 12.5 mm. If the f/stop is f/22, then the diameter of the aperture is 2.27 mm.

The aperture numbers are created in stops. A change of one stop either doubles or halves the brightness of the image coming through the lens. The f/stops have very weird numbers. Here is a table of f/stops where the interval between settings is 1 stop.

f/stop

Aperture diameter on 50 mm lens

f/1

50.0 mm

f/1.4

35.7 mm

f/2

25.0 mm

f/2.8

17.9 mm

f/4

12.5 mm

f/5.6

8.9 mm

f/8

6.2 mm

f/11

4.5 mm

f/16

3.2 mm

f/22

2.3 mm

The speed of a lens is identified by its widest aperture. An f/4 lens is not considered fast. An f/2.8 is in the class of fast lenses. But f/2, f/1.4 and especially fast and an f/1 lens is extremely fast. And they generally, the fast lenses have a price to match.

What Else Do Apertures Do Besides Control Brightness?

Apertures have an effect on depth of field. Wide apertures have a shallower depth of field and small apertures have a deeper depth of field. This makes the aperture setting important when taking landscape photographs, especially with a near-far composition. It is important to get an aperture that will give you the depth of field you need.

But apertures also affect sharpness. When photographing at small apertures such as f/16 or f/22, the size of the aperture is so small that it actually interacts with the light passing through it. The edges of the diaphragm in particular interact with the light and cause it to scatter. This produces an overall softening effect.

Shooting wide open can also have some softness. This is not because of the aperture but of the design of the lens optics. Typically, the sharpness sweet spot of a lens is two to three stops above wide open. With an f/4 lens that would be f/8 or f/11. With a f/2.8 lens that would be f/5.6 or f/8.

Exposure Triangle

Aperture is one side of the Exposure Triangle. The other two sides are ISO and shutter speed. The sides of the exposure triangle are measured in stops or Exposure Values (EV). The light coming through the lens at an aperture of f/4 would be twice as bright as the light at f/5.6.


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Read more:

Tell Me More About Exposure
Tell Me More About ISO
Tell Me More About Shutter Speed
Tell Me More About the Exposure Triangle

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Mastering Night Photography – Focusing

Solve your focusing challenges in nighttime photography.

A lot of people are doing nighttime photography these days including yours truly. There are many good sources of information on nighttime photography. I’ve written a few blog posts myself (Exciting Nighttime Photography in 10 Easy Steps). Nighttime photography falls into two categories – star trails and night sky. In this post I want to elaborate on something I’ve discovered recently with regards to night sky photography.

double-arch-joshua-tree-140628Nighttime photography is pretty much like daytime photography. The biggest difference is you can’t see what you’re doing. Let’s run through a quick comparison of camera settings in daytime and nighttime photography.

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Photo Tips – Getting Great Exposures the Easy Way

Always shooting in Automatic mode? Here’s an easy way to improve your photographs without having to bother with all the technical details.

If you’re a person who’s interested in just taking pictures and don’t want to be bothered with all the technical details, you are probably photographing with your camera set to automatic mode. Often times automatic mode is indicated by a green box. Probably the handiest feature of automatic mode is that the camera makes all the decisions for you. All you have to think about is getting the people you’re photographing in the frame and pressing the shutter. The camera does everything else.

But the problem is that the camera doesn’t always get it right. Often times it will overexpose parts of the image making them look washed out. But there’s a simple way to avoid this without mastering all the complicated technical details of shooting in manual mode. And that is P mode.

Using P Mode

The P and P mode stands for Programmed Automatic. In P mode the camera allows you to make some of the decisions while it makes the rest. You get to choose whether or not to use flash, and set the ISO, exposure compensation and white balance. The camera sets the f-stop and shutter speed.

Let’s take these controls one by one. Let’s start with flash. You can decide whether you want to use flash or not. If you’re shooting in bright daylight or even on a cloudy day you probably don’t need flash. But if it’s a little darker you can always choose to turn the flash on. If you don’t know how to turn your flash on or off you’ll need to consult your camera’s manual.

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Making a Photograph – Two Sides of the Coin

Landscape photography in the digital age requires an unlikely but necessary blending of technical and creative skills. But keep life simple; don’t let the technical drown out the creative.

I recently read an article by William Neill in the September Outdoor Photography magazine titled “Need to Know” that really resonated with me.  His main point is, don’t let the acquisition of gear and techniques interfere with the experience.  There’s so much information out there, so many people offering advice on techniques for composing, exposing and post processing.  But in Neill’s journey he has developed what he calls, ‘… a simple but effective tool set.”

A foundation of gear and technique is important in capturing the experience.  But it is the experience that is what we’re out there for, not histograms or depth of field or leading lines.

joshua_tree_140920__SM32515_6_7_8_9-Edit

 

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Digital Camera Program Modes

Photography Tips – Your Digital Camera’s Program Modes

 

Modern digital cameras are in reality complex computers.  They have memories, processors, input and output devices.  And, like computers, their capabilities (read ‘processing power’) doubles every 18 months to 2 years. 

One of the advantages of all this progress is the program modes that are available.  In this photography tips article we’re going to take a look at some of these modes and get an idea of what they can do for us.

Often the program functions are accessed via a dial on the computer.  In other cameras they are accessed from the menu.  Or, some cameras use a combination of both.  Your camera manual will spell this out for you.

The modes are divided into three broad categories – automatic, semi-automatic and manual.  Let’s look at each beginning with Automatic. 

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