Why Lightroom?

A brief rundown on the strengths and weaknesses of Lightroom

I remember when I first tried to process RAW files back in 2002.  I had been shooting JPEG up to that point and heard about RAW files, so I thought I’d give it a try.  I used the only RAW conversion program available to me at the time – Camera RAW in Photoshop 7.1.  It didn’t go well.  I couldn’t figure it out, so I continued to shoot in JPEG. 

Then I heard about a product called RawShooter from a Danish company – Pixmantec.  It had just become available and it was free.  With nothing to lose I downloaded it and checked it out.  It was fantastic.  It was so easy to use.  When the company offered the paid version, RawShooter Premium, I was all in.

Then, on June 26, 2006, Adobe announced they had purchased the ‘technology assets’ of Pixmantec for incorporation into Lightroom which was in the third round of beta testing at the time.  Version 1 was shipped in February of 2007 and us Pixmantec customers were grandfathered in.  With RawShooter Premium no longer available and a free version of Lightroom 1, I switched to it and was pleased to see some of the functionality in RawShooter Premium that I especially liked appear in Lightroom 1 that hadn’t been in any of the beta versions. 

Michael Reichman of Luminous Landscape and Jeff Shewe in the Photoshop Hall of Fame put together a video training course which I grabbed up right away.  And my experience with Lightroom was off to an excellent start.

A Brief History

Lightroom was designed from the start for digital photographers.  The core functionality was to be RAW image conversion.  But digital photographers need a lot more than just that. They needed to be able to organize their image files, edit them, categorize them, tag them, export them, print them and more.  In short, professional digital photographers needed to be able to run all aspects of the creative side of their businesses using Lightroom.  It’s tempting to think of Lightroom as a tool to adjust and enhance our images but as you can see, it’s so much more.

The Heart of Lightroom – the Catalog

With the introduction of layers in Photoshop, the notion of non-destructive enhancements was introduced.  The idea is that the original image is priceless and if adjustments change it and they don’t work out, you’re in trouble.  You can’t start over again.  So, Photoshop introduced layers.  Virtually all of the adjustments you could apply to the original file could be applied in layers stacked one on top of the other.

To give the photographer the ability to make adjustments non-destructively, Lightroom took a different approach.  The developers created a catalog that is at the heart of Lightroom.  Understanding how the catalog works is key to getting the most out of Lightroom.

Simply put, the catalog keeps track of virtually everything about the image files.  First, it knows the location of the file – the hard drive it is on and the folder it is in.  When Lightroom creates a JPEG preview file that it uses when it displays the image on your monitor, the catalog knows the name of the preview file and where it is. If you use the star method of ranking files or you flag them or assign a color to them, all that data is kept in the catalog. 

And when you make adjustments such as Exposure or Contrast or Highlights or Saturation or any of the other available adjustments, every one of them are kept in the catalog as a simple list.  This gives you a full history of all of the adjustments.  If you decide to start over, since the original RAW file hasn’t been changed, you can keep the original list and create a new list.  This gives you the ability to try different approaches for an image.  And the original RAW file remains unchanged.

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Color Management Made Simple – Gamut Errors

In the forth article in our series on Color Management we talk about gamut errors and rendering intents – perceptual and relative colorimetric.

“Why don’t my prints look the same as the image on my monitor?”  This is a frequent question in my workshops.  It’s not the fault of the printer as is often suspected.  My response is always, “It’s a color management issue.”

This is fourth in a series of articles that are shedding light on the complex subject of Color Management.  So far we’ve covered Color Space in Color Management Made Simple – Color Space, the importance of profiling your monitor in Color Management Made Simple – From Camera to Computer and printing basics in Color Management Made Simple – From Computer to Print.  These three articles give us a pretty complete picture of color management.  But there’s still one very important concept to discuss – Gamut Errors.

In the Color Space article we introduced the color spaces that are commonly used when we work on our photographs – proPhoto RGB (the most complete), AdobeRGB and sRGB (the most limited).  Each of these color spaces was compared to a box of Crayons with proPhoto RGB being represented by the 92 count box, AdobeRGB by the 64 count box and sRGB by the 48 count box. crayons_96cnt In the Computer to Print article we talked about the different types of print paper and inks and how each has its own unique color properties.  That is to say, each paper / ink combination has its own color space.  And the size of the color space (number and colors of Crayons) varies from one combination to the next.  The size of the print’s color space depends on the type of paper.  Glossy papers are at one end with the largest color spaces and matte papers are at the other.  Luster papers are very close to the color spaces of glossy papers.

The color of the paper itself also affects its color space.   Some papers are pure white and to achieve this they very often contain chemical brighteners.  These papers will have a larger color space.  Papers without brighteners may still appear white but they won’t have as large of a color space.  And some papers are not even white but have a pale yellow cast.  Not only will this affect the color but it also reduces the color space.

Now comes the big question.  What happens when the colors in your photograph cannot be reproduced in the paper’s color space?  Or stated another way, what happens when there aren’t as many Crayons in your paper / ink’s color space as there are in your photograph’s color space?  Well, it’s not  a problem if you only use Crayons in your photograph’s color space that are also in the paper / ink color space.  But that’s no good.  You may want to print the same photograph on a different paper with a larger color space.

When you have colors in your photograph that cannot be reproduced in your paper / ink color space you have Gamut Errors.  Boy these can be annoying.  And they can be puzzling too.  You may have areas of your photograph that don’t have any apparent highlight clipping (they’re not pure white) but they still don’t have any detail.  This is because colors outside the paper / ink color space are printed at the outer limits of that color space.  For example, if you have a really intense blue Crayon in your photograph’s color space but a less intense blue in your paper / ink color space, the image will be printed with the less intense blue.  And not only the photographs intense blues but also the its less intense blues.

Remember the CMM (Color Matching Module)?  That’s the software on your computer that basically translates colors in your photograph’s color space to the same colors (but a different set of RGB numbers) in your paper / ink color space.  When the colors in your print fall outside of the paper / ink color space the CMM is responsible for dealing with that.  You can specify how you want it to handle this by specifying the Rendering Intent.  And that’s what rendering intent does – tells the CMM how to render colors that fall outside the color space of the medium you’re printing on.  Therefore,  rendering intent is part of the print dialog.

There are four rendering intents, two of which we use in photography.  Here are the four but I’m only talk about the two we use – Saturation, Absolute Colorimetric, Relative Colorimetric and Perceptual.  It’s the last two – Relative Colorimetric and Perceptual – that we use.

We’ll do Relative Colorimetric first because this is what was described in the example of the blue colors above.  The blue that was out of gamut was translated to the nearest blue at the edge of the paper / ink color space.  None of the colors that are in gamut are changed.  Which is the way relative colorimetric works – colors in gamut are not touched (other than the translation of their RGB numbers from one color space to the other).  But colors that are out of gamut are translated to the nearest color at the edge of the color space.  Theoretically, relative colorimetric preserves the color at the expense of saturation.  As a practical matter, I find that relative colorimetric produces images with sharper contrast and often a little darker than the alternative, Perceptual. rendering intent rc With perceptual the colors that are out of gamut are mapped back to the color space just like relative colorimetric.  The difference is that the colors within the color space are also altered, they all get moved closer to the center of the color space.  I think of it as being very similar to what I used to do as a kid with a rubber band.  I’d stretch it out and write my name on it with a ball point pen. Then let the rubber band return back to it’s regular size and all the letters would get very narrow scrunched together.  It was cool.  Perceptual preserves saturation but may result in some color and tonality changes.  And my experience is that the image tonalities are softened. rendering intent p I routinely use both rendering intents and it would be hard to say which one I use the most.  I like relative colorimetric for it’s more dramatic look due to the contrast.  But often times the shadows become blocked so I switch to perceptual which does a better job of preserving shadow detail or when I want a softer look.  It can be a nightmare to keep track of which rendering intent I use.  So once I find the rendering intent that I like, I change the file name by appending the rendering intent to the end.  The file name may end up looking like big_sur_pfeiffer_beach_130804_rrpm_rc.tiff for a photograph that works best with relative colorimetric (rc) rendering intent printed on Red River Polar Matte (rrpm) paper.  See File Naming Strategies for more details.  I find that I routinely print two, three, four or even more proofs, tweaking this and that including rendering intent until I finally get the results I’m looking for.

Let’s put it all together.  First, calibrate your monitor.  Next, use a large color space for your images in post processing such as proPhoto RGB or AdobeRGB.  Do not use sRGB for your photos.  Finally, when you print use the CMM of the print program, not the operating system, specify the ICC profile for your paper / ink combination, disable color management in the printer and select the rendering intent that gives you the best results.


Do you have experiences and thoughts on color management?  We’d like to hear from you; add your comments.  And if you know someone who might find these articles useful, please feel free to share it with them, Like us on Facebook, repost it on your website or blog.

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Color Management Made Simple – From Computer to Print

Color Management can be a difficult topic. But we’re breaking it down for you. This is the third in a series of articles on the topic – from the Computer to the Print. For a full understanding, read all three.

Color Management is the science of getting the colors you want in your photographs – consistently.  And in my workshops I hear all too often that people are disappointed because the colors they get in their prints are not what they saw on their monitors.  They often go to a lot of work preparing an image and when they print it it’s as if all that work was a waste of time.

Color Management is indeed a science and can be very complicated and technical.  But getting the same colors on the print that you see on your monitor is essential if you are to have control over the creative process.  For that, color management is the key and in these series of articles I’m trying to break it down to make it more understandable and accessible for all of us.

plaskette_rock_setting_sun_110808

In the previous two articles I presented the concept of a color space and what happens behind the scenes when you move the image from the camera to your computer.  See Color Management Made Simple – Color Space and Color Management Made Simple – From Camera to Computer.  In this article I’ll be covering the all important aspect of getting your prints to look like what you see on your monitor; that is, from Computer to Print.

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Color Management Made Simple – From Camera to Computer

Read the second installment in a series of articles on Color Management – taking the image from the camera to your computer.

If Color Space can be described as a box of Crayons as we suggested in  Color Management Made Simple – Color Space,  what else do we need to know about Color Management?  Well, Color Management is essentially about getting the right colors – and here’s the most important word – consistently.

Let’s spend a few moments talking about the ‘right color.’  (I’m inclined to add, ‘whatever that is.’)  The story begins when you press the shutter.  Let’s suppose you are photographing the beautiful redwoods of Northern California.

redwoods_130528__SM36093_4_5_6_7-Edit

The scene is full of rich browns and oranges and vibrant greens.  We can say that these are the right colors, these are the colors you want.  You set up your camera and snap a picture and your sensor captures these colors, pretty much just as they are (the sensor is playing with pretty much the full big box of 120 Crayons). The camera’s processor does its thing and the image is saved in a file to your memory card.  Eventually we’re going to view the photograph on our computer’s monitor and we just might be a bit disappointed.

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Color Management Made Simple – Color Space

Color Management is very important if you want to get prints that look as good as the images on your display. And understanding color space is fundamental to understanding color management.

Color Management is a very complex topic.  And it’s possible to get bogged down in a lot of technical details.  But it’s extremely important, especially if you want to print your photographs.  And it can be broken down into a few simple concepts.

On my workshops I often get asked questions about color management and the topic is huge and a bit technical to get into the details.  So I thought I’d give an overview of the topic in a few blog posts.  Who knows, maybe I’ll create a presentation that can be used during  a workshop.

Color Space

Let’s start with color space which is the whole reason we need color management.

A color space is all the colors that can be rendered using a given technology.  Think if it this way.  You all enjoyed coloring with crayons when you were young. And I don’t know  about you but I was always envious of my friends that had the big giant boxes of crayons with 120 different colors.  They had every color under the sun.

crayons_120cnt

We can think of the 120 crayon box as being the color space of the real world with every color under the sun.

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Lightroom Tutorial–Color Calibration

Sometimes I create a post just to document and remember a learning process I’ve just gone through.  This is such a time.

I just spent an hour or so recalibrating my laptop monitor.  I calibrated it recently and it didn’t seem to come out right so I decided to recalibrate it again this morning.

Calibrating your monitor is a critical first step in the whole color management process (an area of study that hundreds of pages have been written on and that I won’t go into here – maybe later).

There are two settings you need to set in the calibration software – gamma and color temperature.  I made some guesses as to what these were and guessed wrong.  That’s why things like colors and tonalities didn’t look right.  A little digging into Lightroom help provided the answer (when all else fails, read the documentation – yea, I know).  So here it is.  Hopefully it will save you some time in the future.

Gamma: 2.2
Color Temperature: 6500K

Good luck.

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